Elevation of the Holy Cross Eastern Orthodox Church

Traditional blini Russian-style

 
Wednesday, April 06, 2005
By SUSAN KALAN
The Express-Times

The Lenten season is in progress for followers of the Russian Orthodox faith until the celebration of Orthodox Easter on Sunday, May 1. It is a time of fasting which began March 13 or Cheese-Fare (Forgiveness) Sunday.

Before fasting, the traditional Russian dish, blini, described as thin pancakes similar to crepes, are made in huge quantities. They are savored with such garnishes as caviar or smoked salmon.

Blini are known round the world as a delicacy or the perfect compliment to gourmet caviar. The French refer to blini as hors d'oeuvres and prefer to top them with a dollop of creme fraiche or fine caviar. The Russians prefer blini topped with butter, sour cream, caviar, and a variety of fish including sturgeon, lox and salmon.

According to the Internet site bestofrussia.ca/food.html, making blini was "a real sacred mystery. People told fortunes on the dough. They kept their recipes of blini in secret. The first blini were put on the windowsills for poor people and pilgrims. Foreigners were very surprised at how many blini Russians could eat. The most popular blini are made from buckwheat flour. Good blini are thin. The thinner the blini, the better the skill is."

Locally, members of the 'O' Club at Elevation of the Holy Cross Eastern Orthodox Church, in Hackettstown held their traditional all-you-can-eat Blini Brunch on March 13.

Maxine Kassatkin, wife of Holy Cross Archpriest John C. Kassatkin, prepared the vat of blini batter the night before for the brunch. The actual skillet-frying of the crepe-like blini was done about 30 minutes before serving time with the help of church members Yelena Cheban and Pearl Exton.

Maxine Kassatkin says her batter ingredients included 25 pounds of flour, 1 pound of yeast, about 6 gallons of milk, and three to four dozen eggs. She figured her guest count at approximately 90 dinners served, with at least five blini per plate, plus extra blini for takeout.

According to Kassatkin, her husband makes the traditional trip each year to the Brooklyn fish market for caviar, smelts and smoked salmon which he prepares for blini toppings which include sour cream, smoked lox, pickled herring and caviar.

She explained that fasting ends on May 1, when Easter baskets of church members containing such foods as kielbasa, paska (bread), and colored eggs will be blessed following the liturgy and brought home for holiday feasting. Her own Easter basket, she says, will be covered by a scarf embroidered by her husband's grandmother some 80 years ago.

Kassatkin, calling herself "Matushka," Russian for "Little Mother," says she and her husband started the brunch at Holy Cross when he was assigned as its pastor in May 1982. He had temporarily served as a supply priest following ordination for parishes in Northern New Jersey as well as in the Philadelphia area.

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The following blini recipe suggests warming the eggs, which allows them to accommodate more air when beaten. This makes for a lighter batter.

BLINI

2 eggs

( cup potato starch

( cup all-purpose flour

1 ( teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons kosher salt

( cup milk, warmed

4 Tablespoons butter, melted and cooled

About 2 Tablespoons vegetable oil

Making the batter:

Place the eggs in a bowl of warm water and set aside for about 5 minutes. Combine the potato starch, flour, baking powder and salt in another bowl.

 

Beat the eggs with the milk in the bowl of an electric mixer until almost doubled in volume. Add the butter, then, with the mixer running, add the dry ingredients. Allow the batter to rest at room temperature for about 20 minutes.

Making the blini:

Heat a small skillet over medium heat. Add just enough oil to coat the surface. Add 2 tablespoons of the batter, swirling it to spread it, and cook until the top is bubbly and the bottom lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Flip the blini over and cook until the second side is golden, about 1 minute longer. Transfer the blini to a plate and cover with a clean towel to keep warm. Continue cooking blini until all of the batter has been used. Serve warm.

 

Makes about 16.

Source: "The Anatomy of a Dish" by Diane Forley ($35 Artisan) Susan Kalan is assistant features editor for The Express-Times. She can be reached at 610-258-7171 or by e-mail at skalan@express-times.com.